Day 28--MANKA'S FOR DINNER

October 2, 2000

Point Reyes and Inverness, CA

Slept up in Jess's little loft last night. Jess got home around midnight and slept on the couch downstairs. Went into Point Reyes (3 miles or so from Jess' house) to the Bovine Bakery for coffee and a bear claw for breakfast. Met a number of Jess's friends and acquaintances. Everyone knows everyone else in this small area.

After breakfast we gathered our photos and mail and rode our bikes to the Point Reyes P.O. I mailed Scott some more photos, and Jess got her mail and mailed out bills, etc. Then we cycled about 10 miles in a loop through Olema and back to Inverness.

We spent the entire afternoon cleaning Jess's house(s). I swear that this was not my idea. I am not the type of mother who would run a finger through the dust.

A little before high tide, a flock of greater yellowlegs flew in to feed on the mud flats in front of the house. I also saw a Hutton's vireo, Florence.

Landlord Ginny Brownback and Jess

Before we went to Manka's Inverness Lodge, where Jess works as a server, we had a glass of champagne with Jess's landlord, Ginny, and her daughter, a firefighter with the Point Reyes National Park. Jess was celebrating the year that she has lived in her little house(s). Her landlord, a woman in her 70s, is an accomplished photographer whose studio is actually one of the little buildings on the property. One of Jess's friends had bought the champagne to toast Jess's triumphant ride into Inverness and, of course, we did not want it to go to waste despite the fact that we motored in rather than riding in with our arms lifted in triumph.

Manka's was quite the experience. I had "local swordfish, olive oil, and herb braised fennel." Jess had "peppered rib eye chanterelle with butter and tomato," and Lori—a friend who ate with us—had "rosemary lamb in stinging nettles and red wine." Our appetizers were varied and delicious and we had a chocolate desert that was fantastic. Many celebrities eat at this restaurant—Alice Walker had eaten there the night before—but Monday night is a little more casual and local so I can't say that I ate with so-and-so, at least to my knowledge.

Manka's Inverness Lodge entranceway, stone fireplace, and one of the tables in the dining room

Tomorrow we're going to canoe a little on Tomales, beachcomb & bird a bit, and then pack up and go in to Sausalito to my brother Tim's. He has several bike routes/birding areas planned so I'll get in more riding miles. We'll stay at his houseboat Tue & Wed. and then plan on staying with Rick and Letitia (Basford) Hammond Thursday night. Letitia and Jess went to Stillwater H.S. together. Rick and Letitia live closer to the airport than Tim, so it will be more convenient to get me to my 6:35 a.m. flight on Friday morning. I plan on having a bike store near Tim box and mail my bike back to Cooper's Bike Center in Stillwater.

Photos I took of a rusting boat on Tomales Bay, Inverness; the Dacha on Tomales Bay, Inverness, The Point Reyes Lighthouse, and Drake's Beach 

Miles: 13.39

Route: Foggy in the a.m. clearing to sunny and crisp in the afternoon. Rode 13.39 miles on my featherweight bike without the panniers.Easier to swing a leg over without them also.

Weather: Temps in the 60s and low 70s.