Day 6--OCEAN CAMPING

September 10, 2000
Forks to Kalaloch, WA

We're at the Kalaloch Campground right on the ocean. It is 5 p.m. and I am waiting while Jess makes one more loop to find the perfect campsite. Which will she choose? #1 or #2 below? (Both are  Internet pix of Kalaloch sites; it was sunny the day we arrived.) I am talking to a couple of tandem riders we met last night. They are doing the Olympic National Park loop. 

Choice #1 on the ocean or Choice #2-- In the trees with a trail to the restrooms
and will catch the morning sun

 Jess finally found the perfect campsite . . . after a search lasting nearly 1 hour! If you guessed Site #2, pat yourself on the back. (Jess takes after her father when he is searching for the perfect Christmas tree.) The site is sunny to dry our gear—and has a bear warning in the center of the picnic table. We're supposed to put all foodstuffs in our car. Ha!

We left Forks late this morning. We were in no hurry as we had decided not to go to the rainforest. We had seen enough rain. This left us with a spare day.

We cycled leisurely and made several stops along the way. The first was at Ruby Beach. We ate our lunch at the trailhead, chained our bikes to the trailhead rail, took our money and valuables with us, and hiked down to the beach where we explored tidepools and beachcombed. It is a very beautiful beach and area.

My bike at the trailhead fence; we are eating lunch on a trailhead bench only feet away

Susan on the trail down to Ruby Beach. Note the fog behind her even at noon. My point-and-shoot just cannot capture the magic of this area so I have included several
Internet photos below.

Internet photo of Ruby Beach from the trail down to it

Another Internet photo of Ruby Beach; it was just too picture perfect

Internet photo of the stream that bisects Ruby Beach

We stopped briefly again at a touristy place that had all sorts of chainsawed wood carvings and driftwood things.

Susan in her new yellow specs before an interesting root at the roadside wood carving place 

My camera was cheap and my skill with it
zilch. I was very disappointed with my photos

 Before we left this morning we stopped at a grocery and stocked up. We both bought plastic containers slightly larger than a shoebox to put our food in. I carry mine on my rack and Jess puts hers in her BOB pack.

Steak, mashed potatoes, yellow and zucchini squash for dinner. We’re not skimping on our evening meals and look forward to supper all during the day’s ride, particularly if it is cold or rainy.

Below, a final photo of this beach--Kalaloch Beach-- and its piles of driftwood.

Miles: 36

Weather: Probably 70°F today for a high. A beautiful, sunny day but when you pedal from the sun into the shade of the fir and spruce trees the temps drop at least 10 degrees.

Route: Forks to Kalaloch. 45 miles with a long stop at beautiful Ruby Beach; Hwy 101 from Forks to Kalaloch Campsite in the Olympic National Forest.

Kalaloch Beach driftwood

Day 7--LAKE QUINALT

September 11, 2000
Kalaloch to Quinalt, WA

We're at the Rainforest Laundromat on the south side of Lake Quinalt. We cycled down here after setting up camp. Turned out that there were no laundromat or showers at July Creek, the spot where we’d originally planned to camp. So, we talked to a young guy in a C-store and he directed us to this campground, which we sneaked into as it is closed for the season. We're camped right on this beautiful lake. The only campers, of course, here. There are high mountains across the lake, deep woods this side. We glimpsed snow peaked mountains several times today. At the moment, we're washing everything we own and taking pay showers. How strange to ride my bike without the panniers! Tomorrow we have our first "long" day.

Top left clockwise:Jess on the road to Lake Quinalt; the view across the lake from our campsite; our little tent and me starting dinner on our convenient log table; Jess sorting clothes to take to the Rainforest Laundromat

Lake Quinalt Lodge. It reminded me of something out of the Adirondacks; right: rain gauge on the side of the lodge. Lots of rain on this peninsula with its rainforests, rainbow lodges and laundries. I guess you've got to sell the tourists on what you have the most of.

We rode through part of the Quinalt Indian Reservation today and entered and exited the Olympic National Forest several times. Many of the mountainsides are being logged & we had to contend with logging trucks today for the first time. Most were going in the opposite direction, thank heavens. They roar by at high speeds, spewing pieces of bark.

Clear cut mountains today all along our route

The road shoulder, when we had one, was tricky in spots because they rough-pave the grades for traction and let this surface extend over the outer half of the shoulder. It makes a pavement differential and a very narrow portion that is easy to slip off.

Mexican rice and beans with avocado and cheese, a cuke salad & Murphy's Irish Stout for supper.

Miles: 38

Weather: About 75°F and sunny

Route: Kalaloch to Quinault Lake. 38 miles on Hwy 101 and South Shore Road; fairly easy with only one long climb.

Day 8--MUTHA/DAUTA HELMETS

September 12, 2000
Quinalt to Twin Harbors, WA

Kingfisher & Common Loon

Up and out early today. Big breakfast at the Lake Quinalt general store—our first non-camp breakfast.

Loons on the lake this a.m. and a kingfisher rattling & fishing low over the water. We could see our breath when we got started but soon warmed up climbing out of this very pretty valley. (Reminded both of us of upstate NY and the Adirondacks)

Me sending an email before we depart and the climb out of our Lake Quinalt campsite

Jess's knees have been giving her a bit of trouble. She iced them last night. Today she couldn't stand the cartilage crunch in her right knee so put on her headphones (one ear only). I had discouraged such, but gave in. Miraculous recovery of speed and spirit. She sprinted off and perked up considerably.

I am writing this from the Aberdeen Pizza Hut. Aberdeen and Hoquiam are kind of thrown together logging towns on 101. Not very pretty, but they did have a bike shop (where Jess is now getting her derailleur checked out) and this Pizza Hut where we had lunch. Also had an Express photo service, so I'll be sending some pics soon. Lots of logging trucks today, but most give us friendly toots and wide berth.

Now I'm sitting at the Twin Harbors campground check-in hut in a pool of light from its night lighting. All is quiet save the fog horn out in the bay. We got in about 6 and after showers and dinner we were left in the dark.

A couple of words about our gear: Jess loves her bike and her little BOB trailer (which I affectionately call Bob-jangles, cause he does). Jess is flying a skull & crossbones pirate flag, which has invited many a passing look.

Last night while waiting for the laundry to dry, Jess cut out reflective "mutha" "dauta," labels to stick on our helmets. She'd already cut out a Zappa label for her helmet.

Miles: 70.27

Weather: Warm day, both got sunburned despite sunblock; headwinds.Route: Lake Quinault to Twin Harbors State Park.

General: This is the longest Jess has ever ridden at one time. She's doing great, particularly now that she has her music to listen to. She's a strong rider and climbs part of most hills standing while I just spin slowly and hotly to the top. 

Total Miles, Week 1: 360.85


They are on schedule! [Webmaster]

Day 9--LOGGER'S BREAKFAST

September 13, 2000
Twin Harbors to Bay Center, WA

Internet photo of a cranberry bog like the one
near our breakfast restaurant

Up and out fairly early this a.m., so stopped for breakfast at a little cafe amidst the Ocean Spray cranberry bogs. I had cranberry pancakes and Jess had a logger's breakfast: 2 pork chops, 2 biscuits smothered in white sausage gravy, a mountain of home fries, and a large juice. (The kid just can't understand why she's hungry all the time.)


If you study the little map above, you will see that we rode through Raymond. This little town welcomes visitors with interesting metal cutouts all along the road as one is entering and exiting.

Interesting steel sculptures of wildlife and people enliven the scenery along Hwy 101, SH-6, and throughout downtown Raymond

Jess claimed that this was her favorite riding day yet. The road was undemanding to rolling, the sun was out (we both got sunburned despite sunblock), and the route followed the ocean and then a portion of the vast Willapa Bay for much of the day.The Bay has huge oyster and clam beds.

Jess managed to capture me both coming and going (note her pirate flag in the left photo); probably one of those times when she was waiting for the caboose to catch up

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About a mile before the campground we stopped and bought 2 lbs of fresh clams and a large salmon steak at a place where the fishing boats were offloading. Then we stopped at a little grocery and bought veggies & wine & butter. We feasted big-time!

At the KOA campground, we met Bob and Wilda in a nearby RV. He is a Cast Bullet Assoc. member and was in OR for a competition. She is a retired school teacher from Ponca City, OK (which for those of you not in the know is 40 miles north of Stillwater). They invited us over for blackberry cobbler and coffee. An interesting couple who now live in central CA.

We took showers, did another load of laundry, walked on the beach, and hit the sack.

One of the oyster enterprises on Willapa Bay; Jess prepares salmon steaks as the clams steam;blackberry bushes in the background are loaded with ripe blackberries;
our after dinner walk on the beach 

Miles: 54

Weather: Another mild sunny day with brisk head-and crosswinds

Route: Twin Harbors to Bay Center; 54 mi on 105  thru Grayland to Raymond, Rt 101 out of Raymond, and Bay Center Rd. to the KOA campground; 
General: Half  'n' half shoulders for much of the way; terrain flat to gently rolling.

Day 10--ASTORIA BRIDGE!

September 14, 2000
Bay Center, WA to Fort Stevens, OR

A day not soon forgotten. We cycled very flat terrain around a good deal of the remainder of Willapa Bay. About noon we met Will Grover from Austin, TX. He is cycling the coast from Vancouver to San Diego; then cutting east and back to Austin. We leap frogged each other all day. We shared lunch outside a little market called (I kid you not) Okies where Will took a photo of the mutha/dauta reflector cut-outs on our helmets.

Difficult to see the "Mutha" and "Dauta" reflective names on our helmets; yes, that's Okies in the background, probably established by Oklahomans who moved west during the Dust Bowl

We had brisk headwinds all day, but when we rounded the headlands before the Astoria Bridge, we were nearly stopped in our tracks by the strong gusts. The Columbia River was whitecaps, the breaking crests of which were carried to the roadway. Jess and I had just decided to try to hitch a ride across this 4.5-mile-long bridge when a pickup pulled up and offered us a ride. We hadn’t even stuck out our thumbs. We immediately accepted.

The Columbia River (Astoria) Bridge, also known as the Astoria-Megler Bridge is just over four miles long (21,474 feet), and is the longest bridge in Oregon. The main span is a 2,468-foot steel cantilever through truss, and is flanked by five steel deck trusses, one hundred forty 80-foot concrete deck girder spans, and, at the Washington end of the bridge, seven 350-foot steel through truss spans. The bridge was designed jointly by the Oregon and Washington state highway departments. Construction was begun in 1962, and completed in 1966. 

Will caught up with us while we were waiting for a construction crew to clear the road. He (foolishly I thought) decided to try to ride the bridge, which has a very narrow "shoulder," heavy traffic, logging trucks & a very steep hump at the Astoria side. Add a crosswind that was bending Jess' flag nearly parallel to the ground and ripping leaves and twigs from trees, and you have my idea of a nightmare.

On the way over the bridge in the back of the pickup (which was scary enough in itself) Jess decided to tighten the quick-release on her front wheel. It broke off in her hand. So . . . the first thing we had to do on the OR side was find a bike shop. We got directions to Bikes and Beyond, about 10 blocks away. Jess got a new skewer and our problem was solved.

Here’s an Internet photo taken two years later in 2002 of a car
climbing the east side of the Astoria bridge; notice that they
decided to widen the shoulder to about a 2-foot width.

We left our bikes at the bike shop and explored about a bit on foot. We had just helped a new Smoothie place kick off its grand opening when along came Will. It had taken him almost an hour to cross the 4.1 mile bridge. He said that he had to stop and squeeze against the railing for every RV and logging truck. The shoulder was littered with dead seagulls, he had trouble clicking in without entering traffic, and he would NEVER do that again. He was sore and shaky from holding himself and his bike upright and out of onrushing traffic. But he was also proud that he had conquered "da bridge."

Well, we had another 2-mile bridge to cross to get to Ft Stevens on the south side of the Columbia River. The bike shop guy, Joe, told us not to cross that bridge but to cross via old 101. His route, however, would have added about 10 extra miles, so we stopped at a tourist info stand and asked there. The woman at the tourist info center told us that we could walk the first mile of bridge, which was a humped drawbridge (tho nowhere near as steep as the Astoria bridge).

She was wrong. There was no sidewalk and a shoulder narrower than my loaded panniers. We started to ride across when whooosh a logging truck passed and literally blew me into the railing. We both got off our bikes and walked them, an exhausting and terrifying experience because there was no room to walk beside the bike. We had to walk on a 12-inch ledge and lean down to try to steady the bike against the traffic draft and roaring crosswind. I was beat and nearly in tears when we finally reached the causeway section of the bridge, which had a wide shoulder. It still took tremendous effort to ride against the wind and get off the bridge.

Jeff, Donna, Will, and Jessica at the playing cards after dinner

When we got to our hiker/biker campsite at Fort Stevens, Jeff & Donna were already there. Can't remember if I've told you about them. They're from Minnesota, and are traveling to Mexico. We met them in Aberdeen when they were ditching their panniers for two-wheeled trailers. Will, who had gone grocery shopping in Astoria, showed up about an hour later. We all sat around the picnic table wolfing down food and recounting bridge-crossing horror stories. Jess had three salami & cheese sandwiches, 2 peanut butter sandwiches, some licorice candy & 4 beers. I had a tin of kippered herring, several slices of bread, some candy and 2 beers. Bottomless pits, you know.

Route: Hwy 101 from Bay Center to Hwy 401 to Hwy 101 crossing the Columbia River to Fort Stevens; and then another road north to the campgrounds

Weather: Sunny and pleasant until we left Hwy 401 and the protection of the headlands. When we entered the Columbia River Valley we were faced with nearly stop-dead headwinds gusting up the valley from the ocean.

General: Except for the bridges, this was a fun and pleasant day; couple of climbs, but also one very long unearned descent into the Columbia River Valley. It's fun also to have other cyclists to camp with and talk to.

Day 11--FORT STEVENS

September 15, 2000
Fort Stevens SP Rest Day

Dear readers, have patience with me. This morning when I tried to send the last couple of days, the battery door slipped open and I lost EVERYTHING (wail!)—including all of your phone numbers and addresses. Now I must recreate again! If you sent us a message in the last couple of days, that has been lost, too! Resendez sil vous plait!  We love reading your messages, but must apologize because we can find no time to respond to them.

After a leisurely breakfast, and my attempts to send the Pocketmail updates, Jess and I took to the 32 miles of paved bike trails in this beautiful OR state park to explore a bit. Such fun to ride our unencumbered bikes! At first I oversteered, compensating for panniers that I didn't have. The bike feels like a feather without its gear.

Our bicycles are so quiet that we often surprise wildlife. First bend we rounded, we encountered a small axis deer. The deer seemed nearly tame. It just stood and stared at us and was in no hurry to leave the trail.

Clockwise from top left: Jess enjoying one of the many trails at Fort Stevens; a small axis deer; Susan trying out one of the Clatsop sleeping bunks; our first glimpse of yurts. None were available but we would spend two nights in yurts farther south

First we pedaled to the beach to beachcomb, bird, and see the wreck of the Peter Iredale, a British wheat ship that wrecked at the mouth of the Columbia in 1904. Its rusted ribs still lie in the beach sand.

Dauta and Mutha pose on the beach before the wreck of the Peter Iredale

Next we pedaled to the military installation—gun emplacements, bunkers, and living quarters from WWII and before when Fort Stevens guarded the southern side of the mouth of the Columbia, and Fort Canby (where we had originally scheduled to camp) guarded the northern side. According to the guide booklet, “Fort Stevens was the primary military defense installation in the three fort Harbor Defense System at the mouth of the Columbia River (Forts Canby and Columbia in Washington were the other two). The fort served for 84 years, beginning with the Civil War and closing at the end of World War II. Today, Fort Stevens has grown into a 3,700 acre park offering exploration of history, nature and recreational opportunities.” We learned also that the Japanese apparently sent balloon bombs across the ocean, but none did damage on this side, and, of course, the coast was not directly attacked.

There was a replica of a Clatsop Indian longhouse behind the military museum and Jess and I enjoyed exploring it, too. The Clatsop were the "flathead" tribe described so vividly in the Journals of Lewis and Clark, which, by the by, if you have never read in the original, you must. The journals make wonderful, colorful reading.

Top: Exterior and interior of Clatsop Longhouse; gun emplacement at Fort Stevens;
Fort Clatsop--all Internet photos

After lunch at the campsite, Jess and the others took naps and I sat at the picnic table and tried to rewrite my reports and catch up on my e-mail. 

After naps, Will and Jess and I rode out to the wildlife observation platform and watched a small flock of brown pelicans combing the waves. Though ungainly on land, brown pelicans are beautiful fliers, gliding within a hair’s breadth of the ocean waves. The beaches here are broad and sandy, unlittered with the giant logs and rocks of those in WA.

Internet photo of brown pelicans "surfing" the waves

After dinner (a huge pot of spaghetti for all of us), the skies cleared. We stuck a couple of candles to the picnic table and the kids played Yahtzee until 9:30.

Tomorrow a short day to Nehalem SP.

Miles: 28

Route: Map of Fort Stevens area. 28 miles around the park and to the grocery.
Weather: Overcast with a couple of sprinkles and probably in the low 60s. 
General: This park is so cycle friendly that they even have an air pump near the Info Booth!

Day 12--FUEL FOR THE MOTOR

September 16, 2000
Fort Stevens SP to Nehalem SP

We struck camp and got off by 8:30 this morning, sans coffee because there were no stores nearby.

The day before yesterday on the way to the park we stopped at what appeared to be the sole "store" in the area. Jess went in and I stayed with the bikes . . . and took a pic of a sign on the side of the bldg which read: "ICE COLD ICE." Hmmm. When Jess came out she insisted that I go in and see the proprietress, whom she described as a woman "wearing a wig as big as your rear pannier." A can of beans that Jess found on the shelf was from 1969.

We stopped in Seaside for coffee and to mail the photos I've had developed, forgetting that the PO is closed on Saturday. Drats. I'll mail them Monday.

Breathtakingly beautiful coast today. Jess and I

Internet photo of Nahalem Bay where we would camp; I took a photo from this vantage point also but this one shows the area much better than mine

stopped for lunch at Hug Point SP. This spot is surfer's heaven. The waves are big and beautifully green. The campsites are mostly occupied by surfers. They use a wheelbarrow to get their gear to the campsites, which are a third of a mile down the twisting trail to the beach.

From top left clockwise: The store selling ICE COLD ICE; the first tunnel we've come across on Hwy 101; surfers at Hug Point; The wheelbarrow that surfers use to get their gear down the trail to the ocean

We rode through a tunnel today and it was not nearly as bad as I’d imagined. Short and at the beginning of a long climb, but lighted and not too much traffic. You push a button before entering to activate blinking lights that let motorists know that cyclists are in the tunnel.

When we got to the top, we stopped for a breather and to look at the magnificent views. Two Korean men approached curious about our gear. I was eating a peanut butter sandwich and said "Fuel for the motor." Thought the one guy who spoke English would never stop laughing. In fact he laughed at everything. "Where you start from? Vancouver? Haa haa ha ha ha!" We conversed and laughed with him for a bit and then dutifully let him and his friend take our pictures.

On our next big climb of the day, I was spinning along just fine until I realized that the guardrail had ended and there was a steep drop to the ocean far below. I had a spell of vertigo and had to get off the bike to regain my balance. Then I could not get started again because my legs were tired and the grade was so steep. I had to walk to the next viewpoint turnout.

A red-faced and hot Susan at the top of a climb; Jessica posing before a huge tree
on the trail down to Hug Point

We didn't see Donna and Jeff, the Minnesota couple, all day, but Will caught up with us in Manzanita at the grocery. We bought some beer and wine and things for dinner and then took the back way in to the campsite so that we could stop at a seafood store. Our sumptuous dinner was sea bass, broccoli, potatoes, hummus and cracked wheat sourdough bread. Yum!

Donna, Jeff, and Will checking out the wine after dinner; Susan headed for the clothesline. 

We are in a remote hiker/biker pinewoods section with raised sand platforms for the tents. These platforms are too small for the tents, however, so we're all camped next to the platforms. Donna and Jeff arrived about and hour after the three of us.

The park is full, but we are the only ones in the hiker/biker section. $4 per person. We saw several other cycle tourists today (one couple waaay overloaded) so were surprised when they did not show up. Virtually everyone we meet is using the Cycle the Pacific Coast book (by Tom Kirkendall and Vicky Spring) to shape their itinerary.

The evening sunset sees us to bed

Miles:  44

Weather: Sunny warm day, probably reached 80

Route: 44 miles on routes 26 and 101 and park trails; couple of long climbs, but the grade was not as steep, Liz, as some of our MRR ascents. In fact I'm beginning to like the climbs better than the long loopy descents, which wear out my arms and hands.